The Rough Guide to South America On a Budget by Rough Guides

Author:Rough Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, South America
Publisher: Apa Publications
Published: 2018-12-24T10:10:15+00:00

Drinking

Base Camp Baquedano 731 erraticrock.com; map. Next door to the most popular hostel in town, this former brothel turned lively pub is usually full to the brim with pre- and post-Torres hikers, contentedly drinking local brews and eating thin and crispy pizzas. Expect occasional performances by local bands, themed nights and spontaneous barbecues. Daily 6pm–1am.

Cervecería Baguales Bories 430 61 241 1920, cervezabaguales.cl; map. If the one thing that would make your Patagonian hiking experience complete is returning to a cosy microbrewery serving ample platters of fiery buffalo wings, quesadillas, tacos and other Tex-Mex, accompanied by a home-made light, dark and amber brew, then you’re in luck: look no further than this Californian/Chilean pub. Beers CH$2200; mains CH$6000–12,500. Mon–Sat 1pm–2.30am.

Last Hope Distillery Esmeralda 882 09 7201 8585; map. When Aussies Matt and Kiera couldn’t find an après-trek beverage they wanted, they opened a gin and whisky distillery of their own. Choose from country-specific whisky flights – a selection unparalleled in Natales – or original cocktails including the signature G&T made with their own calafate berry gin. Snacks span the globe. Last Hope is the sort of place you find yourself lingering in until the wee hours. Wed–Sun 5pm–2am.

Directory

Banks and exchange Banco Santander, on Blanco Encalada, at Bulnes, and Banco de Chile, at Bulnes 544, both have ATMs.

Hospital Hospital Puerto Natales (61 241 1583), at Pinto and O’Higgins, handles basic medical emergencies.

Laundry Lavandería Servilaundy at Prat 332 (daily 9am–10pm).

Post office Eberhard 429, on the plaza.

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

The great massif contained within the PARQUE NACIONAL TORRES DEL PAINE, 112km northwest of Puerto Natales, with the sheer granite towers of Las Torres to the east, and the multicoloured Los Cuernos to the west, is one of Patagonia’s most jaw-dropping sights. The park offers incomparable opportunities for backcountry hiking, as well as animal spotting; you are likely to see guanacos – wild relatives of llamas – and ñandú or rhea (like a small ostrich). Pumas also live in the park, though they’re shy, as well as foxes, the elusive huemúl deer and condors. There is also a host of other outdoor activities – from ice-trekking on Glacier Grey and kayaking in the icy Lago Grey to horseriding in the outlying hills.

Hiking the “W”

Though Torres del Paine offers numerous hiking trails, the most popular is undoubtedly the “W”, a four- to five-day hike that takes in the park’s highlights: the massive Glacier Grey, steep Valle Francés and, finally, the mirador Las Torres. It makes sense to hike the “W” from west to east, tackling the steepest ascent last, especially if you’re carrying camping gear, as you will have eaten most of your provisions by the time you approach the challenging Las Torres mirador.

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